We have done about 100 squares of this this year. The year is over, but next year will be interesting. What a nice look!
Considering that you can make that up with only 1 sale, I would think that would be a home run! You should email me so that I can talk to you about costs and pricing. It is important that you know a few tips and some of my schooling before you do a few of the jobs. It might be helpful. ( you should be able to make up that much money in the first square)
Do you think direct mailers would be effective for this type of market? USPS has an online map that shows each route and what the average household makes and will hit each address for 17.5 cents. I was just going to send the postcard to outlying towns(not our main two) on routes w/ the best income. It would cost about $200 to hit ~550 houses, including printing costs.
I've been considering it pretty heavily. We have some decent work lined up for spring, but we've got room for more!
Hardt, I am not sure where you live, but this works better than most of what is out there. It is expensive, about $3.00 per foot to buy the materials and the needed accessories, but that is about what you would pay for a Grand Manor shingle for instance, and that would make it about like selling a high end shingle install. This system breathes also so it is like installing a "cold roof" for no additional money. The labor is about what you would get for installing a standing seam roof, IE. easy (?) on a straight roof, and progressively harder and more time consuming on the more cut up ones. I would price it between a high end shingle and a standing seam roof. If everyone is using the light gauge pole barn metal (AG) panels as some of the guys here would call them, it is more expensive, but then again, you can hardly get the granules to come off from this stuff. Much better than a painted surface. It is also galvalumed on both side before the granules are applied. Lastly, it is a look that people are used to like a laminated shingle, but on steroids. It is a real neat look. It will not be for every roof, but I am sure you can upsell and give people an option. It will be a large part of our revenue this year I am sure. Looking forward to pushing it hard this year.
I haven't seen any roofs like this in my area. I would love to install one I just don't think the average homeowner would use this over the screw-down but I'll tell what it look's a h*** of a lot better than painted metal panels. Roof looks great.
RG, is that a happy smile or a grin?
TRG Repair? At least when we do one of them, it will be easy to repair if necessary as they will be straight. I don't think we will have many problems with them. Hey, sorry about the stroke. I guess they hit us all. 2014 was a bad year for me too. keep the faith!
At least with the Metro's they are easy to take apart after the fact. We will see how they hold up.
We deal with the needles-in-valleys problem here all the time. Here it's fir needles. Birch trees are a menace as well, all the various debris from them starts a compost heap in your valleys. We have had some luck (meaning longer time between cleanings) with 6 ribbed valley. The two center ribs are larger and form a center valley that can be open, if desired.
Then the filters get plugged up! We ran into that years ago with the concrete tile. We made a big copper valley metal with a standing rob that the tile pieces butted against and it was nice and neat. the pine needles would get into the valley though and they would completely fill up those areas and make the water back up and leak. We had to take them apart and clean out the needles and the leakage would stop.
I know I have heard of people caulking the top covers to the lower so that the debris can't get in. On the other hand, when it does, it can't get out either. I don't know the answer. The same thing happens with shingles in a smaller way.
Decra has the filter too, also for their j-channel rakes.
It has a j channel for the rakes and a J channel with a cover for the valleys.
This profile is very similar to the perfection shake which was oringally Alcoa's country shake shingle
Do they have the individual end caps for these or just j channel on the gables to? You can always do extra wide valleys in ice water or tile and metal underlayment we used tamkos on a tile roof awhile back.
I thought I had mentioned it before, we just pulled a lot of j channel valleys and redid them in the 80s when I was doing aluminum shakes in Houston and saw first hand what happens over time. We would have a two foot brake on the roof to brake our shingles in the valley it was slower but finished valleys would be wide open for drainage.
You had said that before Robert, and I appreciate the info. I asked my rep about it last time and he suggested not using open valleys unless your doing a batten system.