Dead valley question

clvr83, so you're saying if the EPDM Is done correctly, it will probably work?

If you put the strip on the outside of the EDPM and not under it, and cover it with a cover tape instead of flashing, it will last a long time, at least till the shingles need to be redone.

Lefty: I like that but we don't do interior and I'd have to sub it out. I'm going to run a few options by the homeowner, including this. I imagine he will go with whatever is cheapest but who knows.

GSD: There isn't much to go wrong there, as long as I put a transition anchor at the valley. I've seen too many of them pull away in the valley, so I still shy against that.

Woody: Good eye. The gutter might have been better if the outlet was closer to the end, allowing the gutter to be over further.

I should of take another picture when I was there. Directly to the left of where I'm standing, there is a little low slope saddle that connects these two roofs, dumping water right in to this nasty spot.

Despite its ugliness, the existing probably would have worked if the details up roof of it had been done correctly. It looks like the gutter used was a 10' off-the-shelf HD, when an 11.5' piece ran from a gutter machine was needed. The gap on the left side allows for substantial drip-and-splash. Don't underestimate how much splashing water changes the dynamics of leak detection.

Also exasperating the situation is there is no overhang on the gable and bevel siding ran diagonally, channeling far too much water to the mastic smear below. If you retain the present setup, add a facia board on that short gable that is wider than the siding thickness and put the bevel siding on level instead of matching the existing diagonal.

If it was my customer, I would tear everything out, lay down new OSB and then adhere EPDM on the roof and up every wall, remove the windows caulk the hole and install the windows back in. making the whole area waterproof.

egg: I can only send water to the right, the left hits a wall. I'll widen it a little, but it's still going to be close to dead. It will be a much better scenario though, that's for sure.

I've got a stained glass window that was facing extinction when I added a room next to it. Put a skylight in the attic to illuminate it which doubles as a light in the attic. Works just fine.

Framing in the hole on this roof looks to be perfectly workable, but you will have to complete the missing sidewall when you do that and you're not eliminating the cricket, just moving it uphill. Looks like you will need to cut the span in half by raising the center and sending the water both ways with a half-saddle at each end. If that vent turns out to be necessary, it has to go uphill also. Is that thing for the kitchen hood?

Run the roof thru and close off the window. Put the skylight above the kitchen. No need to use the existing window.

Good idea! I've never done something like that, but it sounds like a much better long term option than putting mod bit in this.

If you use drywall to finish the light tunnel, use the high humidity stuff that they use in bathrooms.

Tinner thanks for the photo. I've been wanting some photos to show my guys how I would like flashing(when I'm not around) and this is a great example.

Roofdude: I like the idea about the galvanized reflecting light.

Seenitall: I like it except for the fact that I have to do finish work. We are roofers, not finishers. I try very hard to stay away from stuff that isn't our specialty, but this instance wouldn't be too dificult. I'm going to run some options by the homeowner and see what he thinks.

Also: There is another low pitch valley on this house, but it's not quite "dead" like this one. This is a super nice house on the inside, homeowner designed and built. About 140' flashing total.

Yup! Agreed seen-it-all.

End result: Great solution to a nasty problem.

What I would sell them on would be extending the roof line where the gutter is down to meet the other roof slope.

Remove the existing window and use that hole to bring in light from a new 2' x 4' skylight on the new roof slope. It's not like they have a view now from the window.

This would enable you to use a membrane valley with no siding or wall issues to worry about.

When you frame in for the light tunnel to the existing window opening, finish the interior and insulate around it before you sheet in the roof in this area. You can stand between the roof framing and reach everything to finish and trim out.

You might also be able to re-route that vent to get it out of the new valley area.

You are left with just one wall above the patio door?? to step flash and install siding.

Just my 2 cents worth.

clvr83 Said: Thats not a terrible idea, it made me think about it. I might pitch that by the homeowner, but he is on a tight budget. He picked me and I had to be far from the lowest bid, so he is already stretching it.

I hear ya..... even when it ain't about the money.... it's about the money..lol.

However, I don't think it would be terribly expensive to do that. Especially when you take into account the reduced expense from siding, gutter, copper, etc.

In this scenario where price really mattered, I would buy the skylight top from lowes, usually pretty reasonable, frame it, & flash it myself. Much more affordable than buying one of the high end kits. I've installed several that way, on 2 x 6 framing. Done em on both pitched, & low slope apps. Never had a problem with any of em.

I bet the time & labor would be the same or less, than dealing with it as is.

If you wanted to really brighten it up..... lay out some galv tin on the existing surface, just under the windows, before you cover it up. The light coming from your skylights, will be amplified into their windows. Kind of like how those tubular skylights work..... just thinking out loud.....

A couple of things. Only one or two nails close together at the upper end only. Cleatt he rest of it. You don't want the metal pinched anywhere.

I would most likely use two diverters. One just above the cleat line of the copper pan, the other higher than than vent.

Don't forget to run it well past the outer corner and fold it back in a tinner's wing with it throwing any water at least 4-6" past the corner board and down spout.