Dead valley question

That's not a terrible idea, it made me think about it. I might pitch that by the homeowner, but he is on a tight budget. He picked me and I had to be far from the lowest bid, so he is already stretching it.

clvr...

Was trying to come up with a solution. Thought maybe continue the upper roof into the lower, & put a skylight in. A lot of effort but, solves the roof problem, & keeps light coming into the windows.

CIAK: I might just put in a diverter. I hate to, and only did one other time in a nasty repair situation, but I just might.

TomB: not really snow country, but we do get the occasional snow/ice load.

RoofDude: The windows are adding light to their kitchen, they don't want to lose them. I'm not sure what the vent is for, maybe an intake. I told them that I might take it out of I see no reason for it. I don't have the dimensions handy. The upper roof isn't a long slope, but the roof I'm standing on taking a picture is about 20'.

Thinking out of the box, a rain diverter above the cricket would help slow and reduce the amount of rain to the cricket. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

If it's in snow country; Get rid of the window, install a proper cricket and add a skylight....Stick a window around the corner if the existing window is meeting minimum code requirements.

If it's in SoCal or the like; You can most-likely leave to window - Just install a proper cricket w/appropriate roofing/sheet metal. Don't forget to pull the winodw out and flash properly!

If I was to do that, I would tear everything apart and build a new saddle that was about 8 inches wide at the bottom and whatever width I could get at the top to clear the window by about 4 inches. If you have a long break, there is no reason you can't bend it in one piece. Like you said, the top has to be bent up to go behind the new siding you are going to install, and the bottom wants to bend down over the step flashings you put up the wall beneath. The whole piece will be about as long as your brake so you will have to have a piece of coil stock. Is it wide enough?

The picture doesn't show the details very well as to the window and the bottom. At the top when you fold up the corner, you can solder that if you want to, but since it is at the top and shed point, I would not be afraid to caulk it and nail it with a copper nail. I have seen some of the guys just fold it over like you could with rubber, but that is a lot harder. Not necessary in my opinion, but then again, everyone has an opinion. Make sure it doesn't leak and don't be afraid to charge them for it.

Wow.... nice brain teaser. Any more pics..?

How far is it from the top roof to where it meets the lower roof ?

What are the windows for..? Added light to a room ?

What is the turtle for ?

I asked them to get rid of the windows but thats a no go. We are roofing the whole house and replacing the siding in this small area.

I'm not sure what you mean about soldering the top of the saddle? On the left, there are two bends just to get out of the valley. Can I make one bend, cut and overlap the other one, and solder it?

I can make a flat seam to connect two valley pieces and then solder it. Or if I'm good enough, I could buy a roll of copper and make one long piece. I have a 12'6" break.

The short answer is yes, but you will probably still want to fold them like a flat seam and flux them so that the solder can flow all around the joint. It is much more than that though as you are going to have to cut and solder the top of the saddle and get beneath the window too. All of the siding is going to have to come off, as well as the shingles and the gutter above etc. Do they really need that window? Just a thought!