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What is the right way to fix broken solder joints?

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July 26, 2010 at 3:48 p.m.

Specialist

I have a question regarding the re-soldering of joints. We have a S.S. L.C.C. about 8-10 years old with cracked joints. Some of these have been re-soldered this year and have cracked again. There are some places with patina stains at the bottom of a panel at the wide gutter.

1) Is it possible to re-solder?

2) What is needed to do it right?

3) Are the patina stains indicative of water under the panel?

http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/rcs/users/Specialist/

August 19, 2010 at 11:23 a.m.

tinner666

Is that a ridge? If so, I'd cut both sides loose and do a SS in the center, and an unsoldered FL on both sides. I can't tell what I'm looking at. Large soldered panels can split no matter how well they are soldered.

August 19, 2010 at 8:52 a.m.

Specialist

So,are they fixable?

August 16, 2010 at 5:23 p.m.

copperman

It looks like they never fully sweated the joint in the first place. The other thing I suspect is to much movement. There has to be a lot force on those seams with all those seams coming together like that

August 16, 2010 at 3:23 p.m.

Specialist

August 16, 2010 at 3:22 p.m.
August 12, 2010 at 3:47 p.m.

Specialist

I have photos, but have never created a photo album. How do I do that?

August 2, 2010 at 8:31 p.m.

Martin

You must polish the joints, then you must clean ,with high heat and hydrochloric acid (HCI), the joints. This is the way to burn out the dirt between the both copper sheets. Now you can solder the joint, like new, with hydrochloric acid again.. It`s a shitty and stinky work, but if you do it right the joints will hold the next ten years also.

Take care Martin

July 27, 2010 at 5:18 a.m.

tinner666

The only thing that will work is to polish an area above and below the joints. Size of area will depend on what works best for you. Then, cut the middle area out and put in a new section of panel, flat-locked, and sweat the seams this time. sweated seams don't crack. Keep the iron well away from the front edge of the seam! http://www.albertsroofing.com/Solder%20Details.htm

July 26, 2010 at 8:24 p.m.

Old School

You might just as well listen to a copper smith!

July 26, 2010 at 7:08 p.m.

copperman

Your link is broken, can't see pictures. Old lead coated copper that was not soldered right the first time will be almost impossible to solder the second time and get a good bond. See the problem is the flux is in the joint and it corrodes and can pit the metal inside the seam if it's not sweated correctly the first time. Lead coated is hard to do on a good day. Fix the link and let me see it and I might come up with something. Standing seam usually does not need any soldering so I can't figure what it is your doing.


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