South Florida Asphalt Shingle Roof with Peal n Stick or Synthetic or 30lb felt Underlayment - Product choices

I am looking to re-roof a 6-7/12 Asphalt Shingle Roof and upgrade the underlayment for a longer lasting roof. I can get a lower homeowners insurance rate. I have read online peal n stick will lower the homeowners insurance 25% per year (correct me if I am wrong here)

After tear off I will re-nail the decking to the updated codes, then dry-in with 30lb felt tin tagged. Next I am thinking of applying Mule Hyde SBS base peal n stick (or another 'better' option that approx $100 per 2sq roll) over the 30lb felt, then install light grey dimensional asphalt shingles, with stainless nails My goal is to get 20+ years out of this roof then possibly renail asphalt shingles over it again in the future.

I have read conflicting reports on peal n stick in regard to sticking to the plywood decking 'permanently' so I thought 30lb tin tagged first would protect the roof decking. Also I have heard Asphalt Shingles will melt/stick to the peal n stick making tear off in the future difficult, however I would have 30lb down under that so any future tear off shovel can get to the decking.

Would you apply peal n stick to a asphalt roof and how would you do it?

The synthetic underlayment. I am not sure how this fastens to decking for south florida codes...do you tin tag it?, I know 30lb felt is tin tagged to hell in South Florida. Synthetic underlayment wont degrade and is good in wet shady places, but I don't like how thin it is in regard to bazillion nail penetrations

Q: What dimensional shingles do you think are the best for say approx $80sq Q: What brand of peal n stick do you like for asphalt shingle roofs? Q: What brand synthetic underlayment do you prefer? Q: Attic Ventilation with peal n stick over entire roof? Ridge Vent? Q: Would granulated peal n stick cap sheet be a better option under shingles to reduce the shingle melt in

I know this is a lot of Q & A. I appreciate the help

Chris West Palm Beach Fl

Peel and stick needs to stick to the plywood to get the nail-sealing properties it was designed for.  Any movement of what it's stuck to enlarges nail holes.  The wind resistant advantages only came up later when the Miami/Dade codes changed.

It will be really beneficial for those who are new to roofing business, they will learn many things from this article.

My understanding is that the whole point of peel and stick is that it bonds with the decking. So putting it over 30# would be useless. That said, because it is a relative permanent bond, use it sparingly because on a reroof, you would need to replace the deck if the shingles meld into the underlayment. From what I have read, the problem with hurricanes is that if the shingles are torn off, the contents of the building are destroyed from water infiltration. So the decking is upgraded to minimum 5/8"CDX -fastened with 8d ringshank (4" on ends and 6" in field) then all of the seams sealed with tape. Underlayment does not extend the life of the shingles. The type of underlayment used just depends on how long you are going to leave the roof exposed between dry-in and shingle application.

Thanks for the reply... This roof is a small hip second story roof of 9-10sq, so I could peal n stick it down with 5 rolls (approx $500 material). Your probably right its overkill, but I do like the product in regards that vapor cannot pass through it. Been using it low on siding jobs too

I'm no Florida roofer but I worked in Miami/Dade after hurricane andrew back in 1992/93. Haven't kept up with Florida codes since then but they we're pretty strict at that time. That was before the invention of synthetic underlayment or at least before it's use was commonplace.

Florida hurricanes have cost the insurance industry tons of money over the years so they lobbied and lobbied ( then lobbied some more ) to get stricter roofing codes in an effort to try and make roofs hurricane proof. Which is not possible of course but hurricane resistant is attainable.

In my opinion, peel and stick over the entire roof on a 6/7-12 slope is complete overkill. The only argument for it's use on an entire roof would be a low slope such as a 2-3/12 and then roof over it with shingles but even then I wouldn't do it but rather just use a granulated surface low slope membrane. I would just use the synthetic underlayment and tin tag it.

I don't recommend ever nailing a shingle roof on over another shingle roof. Yes it can be done but you could also stand out in the middle of the Interstate during rush hour traffic. I don't recommend either. Many problems arise with a 2nd layer of roofing that would never have been an issue if the roof had been torn off.

Concerning dimensional shingles, just pick whichever top brand that you like best. I have seen the same problems with ALL of them at various times over the years. In my area the top 4 brands are, GAF, Tamko, Certainteed and Owens Cornning.

I use GAF storm guard around chimney's, skylights, in valleys, along walls, etc... but like I said above I think it's just overkill to use it on the entire roof. Not to mention the extra cost and work.

Concerning attic ventilation, ( with or without peel and stick ) it depends on the design of your roof and attic. If it's a straight gable ranch style house with long ridges then yes ridge vent will work well but if it's a hip and valley type roof with a large/high attic and very few or no long straight ridges then I would recommend roof mounted attic fans.

Good Luck with your project! I hope you get a great result!