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Problems with securing plywood when you can't install a ply clip

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August 20, 2010 at 11:40 a.m.

Larry1

Some one finally came out with a fastener that you can install between plywood decking when replacing decking and making repairs. It's called a PLYCLIPFIX. Visit their website and see how it works www.plyclipfix.com

August 26, 2010 at 4:18 p.m.

Lewis

If you're an experienced roofer/contractor you know with a shingle roof a smoother deck looks better, reduces leaks and callbacks, lowers the possibility of blowoffs, extends the life of the system and so on. My specialty is shingle replacement vs. recover (who doesn't need the extra work?)Selling price vs quality has increased recovers in FL what with wind mitigation code. We frequently encounter warped plywood causing humps or dips, with and without plyclips. We used to nail a piece of valley metal with a couple dozen nails to bridge this but it didn't help alignment much. These new "clamps" are the only product mfg to address this issue. I charge for parts and labor and homeowners are happy I'm fixing the problems I find on their roof. I don't use a lot of these but when I need one or a dozen I have them. Do quality work for a fair price and you'll be busier than most.

August 25, 2010 at 1:34 p.m.

jimAKAblue

Ciak, back in the 70's and 80's, I put a LOT of 3/8" plywood on houses in Michigan. I know for a fact, they are surviving quite nicely and I've never heard of plywood giving out because of snow loading.

I have heard of roofs caving in because of snow loads and it's imperative that they be framed properly. The sheathing is not the defining factor on whether a roof will implode.

The bigger issue with 3/8" is mostly aesthetics. It will tend to sag in between the supports if the attic conditions aren't maintained. But, even that is hit and miss. I've worked on roofs with 3/8" ply and NO ventilation that were in perfect condition after many years. There are a lot of variables.

I'd never put a 3/8" roof on (today) for a customer because the quality of the plywood nowadays is substandard to the products that we used to see. There are a lot of variables within the materials and I have seen many, many 3/4" t & g products that I would call "dodgy".

August 25, 2010 at 12:37 p.m.

CIAK

Jim you might want to also include heavy snow loads etc, There has to be a belt some where across the fruited plane that fits that scenario. I understand if it your house and you live there. Then it is your house and you can do what ever you want. I don't think I would recommend that system for anything else. That said I really don't know what I'm talking about. " i dunno " B) ;) ;) B)

August 25, 2010 at 8:58 a.m.

jimAKAblue

I've used that same technique Stephen.

Dodgy is relative. It gets a bit tiresome defending systems that do a decent job by stretching our resources as well as lower the cost of housing for those that have less. I was one of those consumers in my earlier days and I enjoyed my house, even if the roof didn't meat the standards of those with more money than I.

I would not hesitate to (again) build a roof system with some of the old 3/8" plywood, on 2' centers. Yes, it's a bit bouncy for overweight guys...they better learn to find the framing but, after the roof is shingled, the birds don't care...and the shingles don't care either.

I know the roof will not last forever. It's not important. It will last long enough and some day, a roofer might need to lay another layer of sheathing.

My comments are directed to non high wind areas.

August 24, 2010 at 9:42 a.m.

Stephen1

I suspect jim was being more than a little "tongue in cheek" with the "dodgy" comment regaurding 1x6- he knows it's fine.

Here- I find 1x8's typical for 1920's era houses- of course all the shingle co.s say you can't use anything wider than 1x6----- but since the house has been here since 1922 or whatever, who is kidding who?, LOL

dodgy might be a matter of perspective, mostly

typically I work on older houses-older here being 1910's to 1920's mostly-so I don't get involved with much plywood-and in the back of my mind, OSB is dodgy. I will use it as an un derlayment- but 7/16 osb on 24 " centers- feels " dodgy "to me since I am used to more like syp 1x8's on 16" centers

I remember a young man helping me one day--- he had some new construction experience-went into an absolute panic when we started tearing off a roof on a 1920's house- the thought of a knot hole in a board-or a 1/4" space between deck boards put him in a tizzy- he was absolutely certain we were gonna have to re-sheath the whole thing in OSB- because that's what he was used to

Regaurding the original point to this thread- the product looks like a solution in search of a non-existant problem. I have a paper bag full of plywood clips- probably had them for 20 years now. If I find a situation that would really beneifit from a plywood clip in existing sheeting I simply speedbore a small hole right at the edge of the sheet which lets me get the clip in position-and then with a flat bar I tap the clip sideways untill all the legs are registering. I took me longer to type the description than to do the procedure. I will be retired, most likely, before I use up that bag of clips- heck there is probably 50-60 of them still in that bag, LOL stephen

August 23, 2010 at 8:39 p.m.

egg

Lots of shear strength in 6X1 butted nominal one-by boards. (lol) It is now forbidden here to do a fill-in on skip sheathing jobs when converting from wood shakes/shingles to something requiring solid sheathing.

Then there is the issue of knots, slash grain, sap wood... We're doing one next week. Nominal one-by will be overlaid with 7/16 OSB. Found one two weeks ago that was 3/8 ply with clips on trusses. That was dodgy. We broke joints in both directions and overlaid that one after repairing the existing first. Rock solid.

Most of the nominal one-by I have seen over the years, even heart redwood, were suffering from shrinkage and were no longer truly butted. The best they ever used would have been clear green. No one I know of ever used kd on sheathing except in the old days when you might find T&G as open beam system with no insulation either side and doubling as nailable deck.

The dodgiest I ever saw was T&G used in that fashion, run vertically across purlins on twelve foot (!!!) centers. There is NO load chart you will find that on.

August 23, 2010 at 7:24 p.m.

jimAKAblue

6x1 butted?

Ah yes....dodgy! I don't know how those old roofs survived.

August 23, 2010 at 3:33 p.m.

jimAKAblue

Vaa Fakaosifolau Said: Here in NZ if you cant use 4x2 support you have to use tongue and grooved plywood. Cant say I have ever come across this problem, even on the worst installed substrates. There must be some real shoddy workmanship (and substrate inspections) over there. Good solution though, very simple. :)

PlyClip? never seen one in 40 years in the industry. Sounds dodgy. :blink:

What did they build with before they invented T&G plywood? Something dodgy eh?

August 23, 2010 at 8:15 a.m.

Lewis

check technical info on their site, tests @ over 500 lbs pull strength

August 21, 2010 at 10:02 p.m.

egg

For a buck apiece, they look like something that we all ought to have in the trucks. It's just an adaptation of your basic toggle bolt. Nothing earth-shaking, but obviously quite handy. Not very transparent ownership I must say. Absolutely no idea what the breaking point is on the rivet. One would need to be careful not to assume they are substitutes for the structural integrity of the sheathing.

August 21, 2010 at 2:52 p.m.

Lewis

I use these to correct warped plywood that I'm not replacing, you can't fit a 2x4 in that crack. These install in less than a minute and clamp the plywood into alignment, they work

August 21, 2010 at 2:02 p.m.

jimAKAblue

twill59 Said: I agree w/ Chuck. Id like o see a product that does not require a saw and the cutting.

Typically, when ply is being replaced, the saw is already available and hooked up.

But, if you find yourself with no saw, most regular ply clips can be used. You flip open one leg. Slide the clip on. Install the patch. Bend the leg back down.

This techniqe won't work with all materials but it worked with all the clips we used to use.

August 21, 2010 at 10:25 a.m.

CIAK

wy :) You know I think you have a good point. The Great and All Mighty One "WEB MASTER STEVE" should make that call IMO. Why pay for clips when 2x4 etc does the trick? "idunno" An inventive product this one. Clever very clever. I would think by the time you had to cut the slot it would have just as easy to saw and nail a few 2x's. That being said I don't know what I'm talking about anyway??????????? B) :laugh: :laugh: B) :woohoo:

August 20, 2010 at 1:04 p.m.

CIAK

Larry I believe you should be paying for advertising on this site. Get on your knees and pray The Great All Mighty and Powerful One, Webmaster Steve waves His Hand in Kingly Largess and grants you permission to pay Him. Were not worthy, were not worthy to remain even in the shadow cast by THE GREAT ALL MIGHTY ONE : WEBMASTER STEVE " B) ;) ;) B) :woohoo: :woohoo:

August 20, 2010 at 12:48 p.m.

jimAKAblue

I suppose that will be a good alternative when I run out of 10" blocks of 2x4.


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