please give me your input

i am trying to stop a leak on a grvel roof. i already stripped the roof to the decking,saw the water and kept going untill it was dry. i then put fiberglass base and granulated torchdown to the area and then cemented around the perimetr. in a light rain it doesnt leak, but when it pours it is still leaking a little. ive been trying to fix this leak twice. my next step is to spud bac 3 feet around patch and put fibered emulsion around the whole thing! is that the right move? what would you do?

Make sure you are where the leak BEGINS, and not where it ENDS,(ENTRY POINT COULD BE FARTHER AWAY).

If the roof is no longer considered a viable thing, that is if it's just a stop-gap repair on a lame-duck membrane, patch it any way you like. No matter what you do, it has to be clean or else dirt, rock, and carbon will just corrupt the repair. Getting it back to clean hot membrane with a torch, a mop, primer, light solvent and a rag, soap and water, or telekinesis, is absolutely a must although many people since time out of mind have had mixed results just blasting something on. It quite often works. But a righteous repair has to laminate. One nice thing about a dissimilar patch material is that there will be no argument...everyone will always be able to see exactly what was worked on, even from a great distance. Another good thing about a dissimilar patch is that if you have to widen it later, you know exactly where to start. Spudding an old rock job is pretty easy. Relocating a recent graveled in patch? Oh, yeah; you won't lose track of that. If you have a small kettle and you have a torch, I believe the kettle goes with the BUR and the modified goes with the modified. If you don't have both, you make do the best you can. If it is within the acceptable range for the customer, it's all good.

Why would I want a "knock down drag out" with you"? Yer a nasty little shitheel as was proven last year on NRG and here, and having scampered of with yer balls in yer pocket you are now only back to tout what ever new tinpot "invention" you are unveiling in Vegas. Don't assume that everyone suffers from the same lack of intelligence as you. BTW, not to many will have missed the edit of the S from Custback in your original post. Just backs up what a nasty little piece of work you really are. Unhappy with your life? Look in the mirror.

Now, now. Be nice. I'm not too pusillanimous to extract my three-ply glass from that list. The top of the line is always to make whole, like to like, and to leave it looking like there is no patch.

Good Grief, Emulsion, mastic, three ply glass, fibered custback aluminum, what ever the hell that is.......... No roofer pours emulsion/cold process on a leak area, that's jacklegge bullshit from someone who has no clue of the correct procedure for leaks on a gravel roof- it's no more than a hail Mary and if it misses then you gotta whole 'nother mess to work out. Keep spuddin' and TORCHING like youv'e been doing and as lanny says eventually you'll find the pourous area and kill the leak. You are doing the right thing you just ain't gone far enough. Good luck.

Check your end laps on your granulated to make sure have a good seal,if its a steal deck it could run 30 or more feet easily.If this is a permanent patch you will need to mastic and membrane the perimeter.About a year or so down the road the torch seal will start separating from the tar,seen it to many times before.I dont see no mention of membrane in your post,so i presume you used none in your tie in?

Spud back two feet around the patch, mop on three ply glass, feathering each edge, and gravel it in.