New Roof Pics

I just update/d a new page on my site. I didn't use all the pics, but figured I'd put the page up anyway.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/New%20Slate%20Roof.htm

One problem I see with doing slate on roofs like this is the painters just walk all over it and bust the slate all up. Anytime a shed roof butts up to an area that needs routine maintenance I always see damage from people walking on them.

Four is standard back home. But it is a wet and windy isle.

wywoody Said: With the thickness of tile, the actual pitch of the tile surface is 1/12 less than the roof pitch at normal headlap. When you start adding more headlap, the pitch of the tile surface drops quickly. Ive seen installations where someone thought they were making a better roof with extra headlap on a lower pitch and instead had the tile butts floating because the tile pivoted where it overlapped the tile below. With slate, it looks like extra lap makes the top float instead. Is there any chance a snowload might push the top down and pivot up the butts?

No. 4" isn't really extra for slate headlap. 3" is normal, though very few are done that way. My slates won't rock. They are nested fro best fit.

With the thickness of tile, the actual pitch of the tile surface is 1/12 less than the roof pitch at normal headlap. When you start adding more headlap, the pitch of the tile surface drops quickly. I've seen installations where someone thought they were making a better roof with extra headlap on a lower pitch and instead had the tile butts floating because the tile pivoted where it overlapped the tile below. With slate, it looks like extra lap makes the top float instead. Is there any chance a snowload might push the top down and pivot up the butts?

Nice looking job tinner. I hope you did'nt bother wasting your time explaining to the effing idiots that wanted to go with a 2" headlap that it is not always about water. That wind uplift is a major consideration with slate. If you want some I have plenty of pictures of what gale force winds will do to a 24x12 Vermont slate roof with inadequate headlap, and it is less than five yrs old.

I tried to convince them to go with metal. No go! :huh: But, I ddi my best and I think it'll be OK. The fir won't rot. The layers I installed will help. The 4" lap almost created a double layer.

Yes Mike, 1-1/4".

A nice standing seam tin roof would be historically correct also. I hate those historical society people who think they know best. I had to do the same a few years ago on a state run project. they had me install wood shingles on a 3 pitch in a heavy snow area. Was not allowed to use ant paper or ice & water shield or pressured treated shingles. First winter they had 20 inches of wet snow and it laid on the roof for weeks. It leaked through(duh)everywhere. They came after me for replacement. I had them,before I started the roof sign off on going against manufactures recommendations.That saved me. I did go and shovel it off and the leaks stopped of coarse. It never leaked in the rain, only when snow laid on it for long periods of time. They had to re-build the whole structure prior to my roofing it because it had all rotted away because it had the wrong kind of roof on it. Go figure.

Yup. But the first one, with 15# paper and 2" headlap made it for 65 years. This will go farther. It's in a historic area and supposed to look original. Which had 8x12 and 5" exposure, 2" headlap. Because of the holes, I went 6" with 4" headlap. And I did cull the crossgrained slate. With the copper nails, I bet it last 100 years this time.

The other bidders said the I&W made headlap unnecessary and were going to install 6x11's. 5" exposure. :woohoo: The style is the norm for the area.

Way to flat for slate. All they got is a tar paper roof that looks like slate.