Metal shingle repair - Possible in the field?

This guy got a metal shingle(Tamko?) installed about ten years ago by the local lumberyard, they hadn't done one before and can't stop the leak. Been leaking since day 1, or close.

Am I going to be able to use a zip tool and not completely wreck the upper shingle? Stair stepping up the chimney/siding wall seams VERY tedious.

Problems: -Leaking on long side of chimney, but it could possibly be coming from the upper cricket or siding upslope from it. -Skylights leaking slightly in the middle and little bit on both sides. They were replaced in 1995 when he got a new asphalt shingle roof that only lasted ten years. -Decking popped up in two spots, one can be seen to the upper left of the skylights.

I haven't walked the roof yet, too slick. Going back more prepared next week. Will be installing some anchors for him as well.

As usual in my opinion, seen-it-all has it pretty concisely summed up there.

I love a challenge too, but it has to be accompanied by an underlying conviction that there is a happy ending in sight.

You can talk about the skylight bank alright, but the roof plane seems to cup where it meets the stone and sidewall, the sheathing is buckled, the flashings are all suspect, the field material looks kind of sad and beat and stomped on.

I think it's a tear-off. I've buried myself on stuff like this before. I'm going to take a Darryl stance. Tear it all off and do it right. They won't like it, but they probably don't realize they've already turned cherry-red inside and I wouldn't want to be anywhere near when they flash.

"Lawyer and Judge couple"

Better get it right the first time. B)

To get more slope, you would just raise the height of the amount of channel you leave. Of course, that decreases the height of your Tinners wings......but if you gain slope, it might be acceptable.....just one of those in-the-field, seat-of-the-pants compromises part of being a roofer that could come back to haunt you later. ;)

I think I can manage that woody. Making slope towards the shingles and fit snugly seems a bit difficult though.

Woo, got to love a challenge.

Unless the skylights are being replaced with Velux units and the original spacing done to their specs, their flashings probably won't work.

The U channel running vertically will have be cut down where the intersections are. I would get the measurement between the lowest part of the skylight frame and the bottom of the U channel. Cut that figure in half and that is the height of amount of channel to cut the channel down to at the intersection. Then take the horizontal u channel that will act as both head and back pan flashing and cut it to fit the desired width (somewhere close to 30") Cut the end that will go into the u channel to have short Tinners wings and a small drip tab to be bent down into the u channel. Cut the other end however is required to dump over the metal shingles. There should be a slight sideways slope towards the shingles.

I did one like that before. the only way to do it is to take it apart from the top and then put it back together again. Not fun! One reason I like the Metro's (again) Anderson hasn't made skylights for a few years. Good luck getting anything to match up.

I think they are Anderson windows. The type with the rubber gasket going over whatever flashing is there. They added that top diverter after the leaks started, hoping it was a volume issue.

I was planning on replacing all the flashings, but I'm getting discouraged about getting these shingles apart, especially in a step-pattern. A guy on another forum basically said it wouldn't be fun, and might not work. Same thing here.

I'm going to walk the roof this week so I can get up close and personal with the problems.

Clover, the problem you are going to run into is that the skylight flashings from Velux or any of the other brands are not set up for the metal shingles like that. the step flashing on the sides are designed to go between the rows of shingles and not underneath the metal shingles. the shingles don't have any head lap. On a "ganged" system like that, you order the flashings with the lights and they are engineered to beat the band. Everything fits perfectly, and all of the pieces have little indentions in them so that there is no overlap and no high spots. Looking at the pictures, they just reused what they had and caulked the heck out of the sides. You could just get some of the wall flashings for the metal tiles and install it next to the skylight and counter-flash with a new Velux package. I would replace the flashings as they are old and a mess. There is a reason they are expensive, as the dies cost a lot of money to make.

U shape going horizontal, do you let it drain in between each one or send it out the ends?

I'll probably make an attempt

"We will bend our our own gutter in the middle for the ganged skylights"

I'm assuming gutter just means big flashing pieces. For a second I pictured something more complicated.

"the cheapest possible product is going on thousands of buildings as we speak."

I just ran a public radio ad for my business. I was thinking about revising it to say "this is a public service anouncement by Clover Roofing: Pole barn roofing is not a life time roof!"

Not sure if that would really help my business though, could be perceived wrong.

OS: The installer(contractor) was a client of his who he was helping with a divorce. They suggested the metal even though they had never installed it. Not that I can blame them for trying something new...

OS: He usually gets the debris cleaned out of the skylight yearly. It's mainly leaking on one side, but does leak some in the middle and has leaked on the other side. I agree about the middle flashing though. Also, very perceptive about the venting. I hadn't attributed that to the decking pop or other issues.

Tom: I keep going back and forth on that. I've never torn off such an expensive roof! Backwards cap: I'm assuming the cricket looks backwards, but it might be the angle. I took that picture with my arm extended around the chimney because I couldn't see the cricket from the ladder.

If I do tear it off, I might suggest Insprire fake slate. I've been wanting to try them out.

edit: Okay, I have torn off that expensive of a roof, just not so new. Forgot about the clay and concrete tiles we have ripped before.

Clover, That is one reason to use the Metro shingles as they can be "unzipped" and removed if need be. You know that now though.

It looks like their flashing against the wall and the chimney if that is what I am seeing consists of a good caulk job. Very suspect for sure, especially where the stone and siding come together. I would bet if you can tear that apart you will find water beneath it. Also, on the skylight, I would consider replacing the step "U" shaped flashings between the lights and putting in one single piece. that is normally what you see with the velux units and properly installed they don't leak. They had problems with it before as you can see that they installed a single flashing across the top to try and keep the water out. You will also notice that there is a lot of debris between the top two higher units as the water can't wash down between them to clean it all out.

Finally, I will bet you a nickel that the "pops" are caused by improper ventilation as I don't see much there. Heck, if they are a lawyer and a judge, they should just sue someone. that is the normal progression of things anyway!

Also, he had the siding removed from the chimney before this and had the stone installed. The weight caused problems with the foundation and he had to pay $15k to get that fixed!

The joys of being a homeowner.

Oh wow, that's a good point about the locks. You can see that a lot of them are dented, too many goobers trying to caulk it. I might have to try that though, because we all know that even a caulk job is much better with the right applicator. That decking pop will have to be addressed, but maybe not this year if I can stop the others without pulling panels.

I know I could buy a Wasco skylight that would be a one shot deal and just flash to the curb, I bet I'd have to set it up there with a boom truck or four guys. Other than that, I would think this would be a standard kit from Anderson/Velux to interconnect.

It would have to be a low pitch cricket, or else your getting a pretty high curb.

Lawyer & judge couple, but I don't care who you are, it sucks to replace an asphalt roof after 10 years, then a metal roof after ten years.