Metal Roofing

I am gearing up to install a metal roof on my existing home. I have installed very few metal roofs over the years. I'm looking for a metal roof that won't oil can and not rust for 20 + years or longer. I have considered copper. The price concerns me. Is there an alternative product that will last till the nail is put in my coffin? On another note I am meeting with an architect tomorrow. Net Zero housing is the rage around here and I'm considering building one. The roofing material is EPDM. What should I be concerned with this product. Solar panels on the low slope( less than 1/2" pitch) with parapets. How does the EPDM perform at the transition from flat to wall.Will EPDM hold up? B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

Rereading my reply I realized, if a big storm blows through here drops a tree or blows the existing roof off. The insurance company will pay for my roof + remodel the house with new upgrades. Being insurance savvy knowing how the system works legally. P/C will buy it. Yeah I hope a big one sets in....... ;) ;) ;) Come On man yeaaaa!!! I'm just "saying" LOL B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Evey Day

jjshaggy Said: CIAK, no offense but I bet Tinner has forgotten more about metal roofing than youll ever know. If you already know what you want then do it. Typical homeowner syndrome. You claim to know more about your roof than the roofer yet you hire someone to install it.

B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

CIAK, no offense but I bet Tinner has forgotten more about metal roofing than you'll ever know. If you already know what you want then do it. Typical homeowner syndrome. You claim to know more about your roof than the roofer yet you hire someone to install it.

High winds are a way of life Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day, high heat lots of rain. Underlayments are an essential part water proofing a roof assembly. The potential of a panel blow off, imperative the underlayment is there. Regular asphalt as you indicated will not hold up at those temps,SBS S/A or APP torch for underlayment still investigating. Low slope products. I am leaning towards a half lap modified mopped over 3 plies of fiberglass. The stumbling block for me is coating, Karnack 928 aluminum fibered roof has my attention. I am going to start this project soon. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

Snap lock doesn't do transitions very well. If you keep it out of the way of high winds, it doesn't unlock too easily. I saw one I did for another company a few weeks back after a F-1 cleared the yard around the house. Roof was still there, but a few did unlock. Not too much of aproblem if there's no heavy rain involved.

Underlay won't matter. It'll be dust well before the roof dies and is only for dry-in purposes.

What I am learning about Metal roofing here Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day temps under the metal exceed 200+ degrees F. That is pretty hot. Expansion and Contraction huge. Special underlayments that won't melt. I'm looking at a snap lock panel Galvalume. B) :) :) B) Deep Down In Florida Where The Sun Shines Damn Near Every Day

Epdm isn't a bad product.It works well to transition from steep to low slope,but only available in black or white. If you're going to spend all that money on a metal roof I wouldn't cheap out on the flat roof. Maybe a Sarnafil pvc roof? They have a wide range of colors available so you could try to match it to the color of the metal roof.

copperman Said: Dont mean to argue tinner but your second pic. shows oil canning. Are you confusing oil canning with buckling? Oil canning will happen on all thin metal no matter how it is installed. Its the nature of the beast.

Up by the ridge? Whole roof is bent there and the large oak tree that was at the corner is missing. Probably damaged with the tornado that went past the building a few years back. I have two other roofs elsewhere that an emploee putt he cleats against one panel on each roof. When hot, the panel in question on each roof lifts about 3" in the center when the sun is on the roof. All other panels, you can lay a straight edge across the panel and they're flat from one end to the other. I'm assuming, and can be wrong, that's what we're talking about. It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong though.

Don't mean to argue tinner but your second pic. shows oil canning. Are you confusing oil canning with buckling? Oil canning will happen on all thin metal no matter how it is installed. It's the nature of the beast.

I forgot to mention. THere is 1/2" gap where the panels fold over the DE, and 1/4" gaps between the panels and chimneys, dormers, etc. to allow room for movement and prevent oil canning.

The only ones I've seen oilcanning are the flat-lock copper. Aluminum, SS copper, SS, Steel, all will go down and never oil can if the cleats aren't tight to the panels. I keep 1/8" to 3/16" gap there myself. I took these pix Tues of a tin roof I installed in the late 80's or '90. Not sure which. No oil canning anywhere and we did it in winter. Temp was 95 when I took the pix.

Want to know something interesting? This is the last roof I can remember priming with lead & oil based paint. The owner still hasn't put the second coat on! :woohoo: It never peeled, but I think half of that red is rust.

Any metal roof will oil can unless it's very heavy gauge. Copper is down now and would be the last roof you ever put on if you have the right installer who understands expansion and contraction and also knows how to solder.