Im getting a new roof and need advice

1200 sq ft house. built in 1952. Cinder block construction. Three 4/12 roofs. 5 miles inland from the west coast central FLORIDA.

Im adding rafter and collar ties. Vertical rafter supports. gable end supports. Hurricane straps.

Then I will hire someone to remove old shingle roof. Secure planking with 8D ring shank nails.

Might use peel and stick. Then Id like a metal roof, although I might go shingle.

I dont have a lot of money, but i do want the strongest roof possible. I want my home to withstand the next big one that comes thru.

Is metal really that much stronger and longer lasting then shingles?

What is the best strongest type metal roof? Ive interviewed many contractors and each has a different opinion. The contractor im considering now says any roof all bets are off with wind over 80 miles per hour. Still metal is way better then shingles and that all that I need is galvalume with exposed fasteners. That standing seam is way more expensive and no better. That the exposed screws will never leak. Im doubtful.

Your thoughts?

tks, pa

Okay, here is some advise from a professional.. Do the job by hand, this will ensure that all the nail will be nailed correctly. The shingles will be able to resist all the wind that it may encounter. Recently did a roof for a homeowner and this is how their roof looked like: http://charlotteproroofing.com/winds-affects-roofing-shingles/

Good Roofers? That is like saying you want some good cold fire! Ha Ha! Where are you located? It makes a difference what type of roof you want too. I do a lot of slate and tile and metal, so I am good at it. Others here would be good with flat roofing and not worth a damn at the slates and tiles. I would not recommend me for a large industrial flat roof. See the difference? good luck!

where can i get a good roofers ?

Personally, I would do all the reinforcement AFTER you remove the 3 layers of shingles. Get that weight off the trusses before you start securing them.

Tom,

A finish warranty is hard to find on a metal roof right on the coast. Some exist. My neighbor got his replaced, me not so lucky. His was Kynar finished, mine was galvalume. I bought the house this way, and not the original purchaser.

Yes, welded. See video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfeUUIP9Eb8&list=PLlwj1gh_I308v_N0e59I7OZkrv1mozOkH&index=1

My galvalume roof on the coast was rusting badly inside of 12 years.

My next roof will be a fleeceback Fibertite XT, fully adhered to the 3/4" plywood, with architectural pvc ribs welded to the finished membrane to make it LOOK like a metal roof, but perform like a membrane roof.

They do not offer residential warranties, but even their thinnest product will last over 30 years. A warranty will not keep the water out, but the piece of paper may help you clean up the mess when the water runs in.

If you want the best possible option available, and no, most contractors won't tell you that, because most don't even know what it is, then this is what you want. It probably won't be cheap, but it will be way cheaper in the long run.

If you go here, http://www.fibertite.com/representative-locator and send an email to either Dave Shultz or Scott Sulzener, and tell them Mike Hicks recommended you to contact them, I can almost guarantee you will get a favorable response. Be considerate, as these guys are chasing work that is much bigger, but these are both great people, and I believe will be very helpful. They may be quite excited about the prospect of breaking this system into the residential market.

Here's a link to a job we did that shows what I'm talking about. http://www.fibertite.com/project-profiles/sandy-valley-schools

How about using screws to secure the roof deck, then installing a 4 inch wide drip edge with screws 4 inches apart all around the bottoms and edges, then stick down a high quality peel and stick to the bare wood decking. That way when the "next big one" comes along, your roof ain't going anywhere unless it takes the whole darn house with it. :laugh: