How would you do this Part 2

I'll take a chance on getting ripped but here goes..... I need to look at a job tomorrow (If I'm up to it) for a contractor that involves removing 10 post that are through a roof. The roof I was told is torch down with alum. coat over it. They have to cut the deck around each post so they can bolt in new ones. Then I have to flash every thing back. Now I'm no torch guy unless it has a copper tip on it so I need to know what I should do. Do I install some material in the low spot to bring it up level then patch over the whole area or is there another way. As for the post I was going to make pitch pocket like flashing's that fit over the post and then flash them in>>>

" pitch pocket like flashing's that fit over the post and then flash them in"

I've been following this thread casually, and I'm still not entirely clear what the original plan was. If you don't have to counterflash the 'pitch pocket-like flashing after it is slipped over the post, what is meant by 'flash them in?' If they are a simple square tube with a continuous flange, (and you are not responsible for water soaking between the tube and the post) then the only issues are:

1. Adhesion to the existing membrane 2. Adhesion of the overlay patch to the flange 3. Water ponding around the post and patch 4. The finished look.

As pointed out in the excellent prior suggestions, the condition of the membrane you set the flange on (which determines the reliability of the principle bond) is paramount. I like all the advice given so far and assume the applicability of the advice is dependent on site conditions. I would want my patch (if the post must remain within the perimeter of the roof) to consist of more than one bond. I would make the receiving area waterproof except for the intersection of the post, whatever that entailed. I would make the metal stick to the repaired membrane, whatever that entailed. And I would cover that with a patch that stuck to the metal. If there is any possibility of water standing around the zone, I would make sure my finished surface stood above it, no matter how slightly above. jmho I am also a confirmed believer in redundant layers, feathered out successively farther out onto the bonding surface. I would also make damned sure my metal did not move any more than absolutely necessary against the sandwiching layers. To me that means screws or ring-shank nails with flat heads fastened through metal bedded in adhesive.

Don't leave square patches with sharp, square corners. They have a decided tendency to peel up.

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Hi Copperman,

This option may suit you better, go with the VAA preparation re the paint 100% agree torch on will not bond to the coating,

How about making the base and upstand to the post in copper ?

Apply primer to copper (both sides) and bond the torch on to the copper and the existing roof.

You would have the advantage of bedding the copper into the existing torch on by heating it which should help reduce the fire risk because the flame can't get under the copper.

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I don't have to do any counter flashing as each post will be trimmed out with azac. I'm just worried about using the torch down. in such confined areas on an old building but I'll use the suggestions given. I'll try to make you proud Vaa>>>

sounds like your going to have to take out a pretty good sized area to bolt posts into the framing. Considering the uncertainty of weather and keeping things water tight I would look into access from the underneath. The predictable cost of drywall removal and replacement and touch up compared to the uncertainty of the weather and time makes me go in the under neath approach to this. The newer post steel brackets that the composition railing systems require, in place of the 4x4 only require a 2 inch round hole thru the membrane. Im not aware of any counter flashing for flat roof installations, and in most cases like this, I try to convince the customer to install the railings to the outside of the roof area, thru the fascia rather than penetrate the roof.

just saying!!>>>

Keep your fire extinguisher close by!Its real easy to a smolder on these little little remodel projects, and you never know whats in the cavity. A base sheet carefully tucked under the existing roofing, with a piece of densdeck for build up will help you rest easy.>>>