Find leaks / Water Testing Procedures ?

We've run into situations like this before on this board.

1. Some regional areas have specifications that trump all others. Florida is the kind of place where that type of trump is as likely to occur as any. Florida guys have a decided tendency to assume whatever is required in their state is some kind of universal law applicable to everywhere else in the roofing plane of existence. With all due respect, this is not the case.

2. It is not a matter of conjecture; manufacturers of most if not all shingles available to me ALLOW and warrantee their shingles on applications for pitches down to 2/12. Nothing more need be said. It is just a fact. IN GENERAL, without intending to oversimplify, code defers to manufacturer specs for application and therefore, in general, manuf. specs become de facto CODE.

3. Applying shingles at that pitch is not the best idea, but I have roofs of long-standing service that are irrefutable proof that it works. Let me just emphasize: IN MY CLIMATE ZONE. I would be extremely reluctant to push any limits when ice dams are a factor.

4. The guy, going by the moniker of 'anotherguy', is in a "Desert region." (Hello????)

5. Don't you just love it when somebody poses something on the forum and then neglects to come back and respond to any of the replies?

6. This is important. Where I work, we have to have a Class A fire rating on all roof coverings. At 2/12 you don't get that with mineral surface cap sheets without having to go to extra lengths. You cannot mop down or torch down your same old favorite deal and meet that Class A requirement at that pitch. 2/12 to 4/12 (in fact, .5/12 to 4/12) is a very strange zone, let me tell you. Sermon ended.>>>

tinner666 Said: I reread the original question. My earlier response was based on my reading it as 2 plies of shingles. Still, shingles on 2/12 over 2 plies of 15 felt arent going to fare well either.

[/quote 2/12 over 2 plies of 15 was the norm around here for 3-4 maybe more decades and still continues today . It is a proven system that has functioned in a properly installed roofing system . If the system is installed properly no leaks for 20 - 25 yrs . There may be some maintenance a tab blown off here and there . I have used the S/A' s I want Jet to back up his " no " Manufacture warranty issue . Pretty simple . I'm suspicious the S/A's are used to cover up otherwise poor workmanship.>>>

I reread the original question. My earlier response was based on my reading it as 2 plies of shingles. Still, shingles on 2/12 over 2 plies of 15 felt aren't going to fare well either.

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CIAK Said: Jet I Missed that in the manufacture warranty . Im still looking and it would be helpful if you could reply with where that is in the manufacture warranty. Stated in writhing by the manufacture. S/A felts though they look like a great product have not faced the test of real life climate conditions. They havent been around that long to really test them IMO

We first used them back in '93 in CT. Given your ineptitude with language I have to assume you are numerically challenged too, so that would be about 16 yrs ago (only trying to help)......not a bad test for a product that is protected from the elements with two layers of asphalt, adhered and nailed to a solid wood deck and whose lower edge is secured with nails or drip edge. What do you forsee happening that would warrant further time tests exactly?>>>

Jet I Missed that in the manufacture warranty . I'm still looking and it would be helpful if you could reply with where that is in the manufacture warranty. Stated in writhing by the manufacture. S/A felts though they look like a great product have not faced the test of real life climate conditions. They haven't been around that long to really test them IMO>>>

craftesman Said: what are shingles doing on a 2-12 in the first place??????

Ditto.......shingle roofs under 4/12 pitch have no warranty from the mfg. without a peel and stick membrane covering the wood deck. Tear off and replace with single-ply membrane.

JET>>>

Jed Said: We had one couple of years ago that really got to me. Architecturals on a one story, bout a 6/12, pretty new, 1 stink pipe close to, leakin baaaad, brought down the kitchen ceiling, holiday home so little or no info on when or what...... Boss says water test it. We get there and its one of those roofs that you know by looking is quality...... its done right. But the boss said water test it so test it we did, for hours, one man on the roof, one inside, watching for entry. Hard directional spray, two hoses, nothing worked. The only clue was a slight water stain on what was left of the remaining damp sheetrock in the very corner out by the soffit. After several hours and no sign of a leak we gave up. Turns out the lanscapers had sheered off a sprinkler head directly below the eave and when the timer kicked in and the sprinklers came on EVERY EVENING........for a half an hour a jet of water shot up directly at the soffit vent and entered the home.

Just when you think you've seen it all..............>>>

We had one couple of years ago that really got to me. Architecturals on a one story, 'bout a 6/12, pretty new, 1 stink pipe close to, leakin baaaad, brought down the kitchen ceiling, holiday home so little or no info on when or what...... Boss says water test it. We get there and it's one of those roofs that you know by looking is quality...... it's done right. But the boss said water test it so test it we did, for hours, one man on the roof, one inside, watching for entry. Hard directional spray, two hoses, nothing worked. The only clue was a slight water stain on what was left of the remaining damp sheetrock in the very corner out by the soffit. After several hours and no sign of a leak we gave up. Turns out the lanscapers had sheered off a sprinkler head directly below the eave and when the timer kicked in and the sprinklers came on EVERY EVENING........for a half an hour a jet of water shot up directly at the soffit vent and entered the home.>>>

Now that I think I know what you were asking , Here is how I would do it if it were my project. Climb into the attic locate the stained or rotted wood. Drive a nail up through where the wood is stained or rotted . Go back up on the roof find the nail. Bang it back down so you don't stick it through your foot . start removing shingles around the area particularly above and around not below so much . Find the leak trail follow it until it stops . Pretty certain that will tell you where the leak is. Forget water testing unless there is no other option. The water test is not the most reliable in finding most leaks . Unless you can't access the . Put the lime in a coconut and mix it all up . Save the Corona's for later after your done . Roofing doesn't come with a warning sticker as witnessed by some of the posters . None of the posters that have replied on this topic up to this point so far anyway . :laugh: :laugh:>>>

2 plies on a 2/12 are going to leak, without question. More water will go sideways than down the roof. The roof was a total loss by time the 2nd. course/row of shingles was applied.>>>

Just so we keep ourselves on a factual basis, most shingle manufacturer's do approve 2/12 applications.

Water-testing to find leaks is ok, and any of the sprinkler, hose methods can be helpful, but it's not really possible to tell in advance which method will yield the fastest results. mnr5970 has good advice on where you may get the quickest results. Robby's right about the way water moves at the underlying levels. (imho)

Everybody else may be right about the eventual outcome. If there are serious flaws, the roof is useless.

It takes years of practice to get good at water testing but it doesn't take years of practice to sleuth out your first problem.

Have a go and see what happens. Some leaks only start showing after a very long soaking and so never show in most water tests. You have to get the trail established any way you can and then read it.>>>

Uh, I had my reply all ready to fire until i got to Craftsman and Robby's reply. They beat me to the draw. However, they did leave the water hose question so i'll go after that one. Running a water hose on a roof in NO WAY simulates rain and is not by any means a reliable source of testing. If your looking for leaks you should be in the attic with a flashlight. If thats not possible then you can measure from a window edge to the leak from inside the house and then get on the roof and do the same. Dont forget to add the 2 foot for the overhang of the house. PS If you dont know what causes roof leaks and the solution this probably wont help you. Your gonnna need a roofer! lol>>>

3-tab on a 2/12? If that is the case, I wouldn't waste my time repairing it....tear it off and replace with torch-down. If you decide to repair it, you will probably find evidence of many entry points (dried water trails) but the leak may be localized in a one or a few areas. In heavy rains, water likes to move side ways under the shingles, once a water trail begins, it will follow its created path and thus, penetrating further toward seams...which will then penetrate to the felt and so = leaks.>>>

what are shingles doing on a 2-12 in the first place??????>>>

Corona, what no limes Test around penetrations first this will probably save you some time>>>