extream frost in the attic with new roof

TomB Said: Its a regional thing - I guess.

It's a regional thing - I guess.

We work both west & east of CD. In the west, attic ventilation is taken seriously and is a definitive design issue, by architects/designers & HVAC professionals.....Not-so-much east of the CD.

TomB Said:

Just remember; Once you offer advice/design, youve bought it, so-to-speak....It sets up a well-intended roofer for possible litigation down the road.

As far as ventilation is concerned, I have not yet met an HVAC person who knows squat about attic ventilation. Maybe that "V" in their name has something to do with the interior of the building.

HVAC - (Heating, Ventilation & Air Conditioning). It doesn't matter how it's orchestrated - Passive,forced, encouraged, etc.....It's on the designer, should an opportunistic individual exploit a moisture, mold, sickness/property damage issue that may arise out of improper ventilation.

Here's another regional idiosyncrasy, where roofer's have taken-on what is actually an HVAC issue.

Just remember; Once you offer advice/design, you've "bought it", so-to-speak....It set's up a well-intended roofer for possible litigation down the road.

Attic venting issues are typical with re-roofs and we all want to help - Just be careful/definitive in your contract, as to what your providing.

Not here to cause problems, but my house has continuous soffit vent, those old metal ridge vent and 2- 24"x24" gable vents and all bath vents, vent outside and I have not venting problems. never had any ice problems, frost problems, etc.

I know what you are talking about now. It is the triple 4" vent with the center panel perforated. If you have ever seen it made, they have a roller that can be taken on or off that will perforate the panels as they come off the machine. It is exactly the same machine with only one of the rollers working and the other two are taken out of production. It costs exactly the same to make perforated panels as it does to make the solid ones. why not all perforated?

Yes, that is about it, the center rib is bent kind of deep and they have the vertical portions perforated, so it does vent, but you can hardly see them.

It looks like solid vent, but the vent is in the center rib, kind of hidden by the way they bend it. Much better to just use vented aluminum. The perforated aluminum gives you about 9.9 % net free area; thus a 10 foot piece will give you about 1 square foot of open area equivalent.

Chris, if you have 2 inches on each side of the ridge open, that will do; it is almost too much in fact. Make SURE that you can see light in the soffit all the way you have the proper vents. Also, change the ridge vent to the AirVent II. It works better! If you will use it all the time, you will look like a true professional.

twill59 Said:

Just did a big wide church addition 2 years ago. LOTS of Cubic feet up there. 12 soffits and..........Center Vent!

Homebuilders Said: VentSure Rigid Roll 20 is the ridge vent.

And do what old school says.

Here is just a little more information VentSure Rigid Roll 20' is the ridge vent. The top is open about 2 inches on each side. Each bath vent is vented out the gable end to the outside not inside at all. The soffit vents are in all of the openings that will accept a stryo chute in them. getting some great information that you so much for taking the time to help.

Chris

Old School Said: Install an AirVent II ridge vent on the peak, and make sure that the opening on the peak is at least 1 1/2 inches wide, the whole length.

He said he used OC vent ridge. Why is anyone buying that junk? It is less than 1/2" thick, so I suppose it is barely noticeable, but there is virtually no air flow.

And it can't be stressed enough. The opening must be cut and trimmed properly. I can't believe how many times I have seen ridge vents with little or no openings.

He has a problem and I told him how to fix it!! As long as he does everyone of those steps and does them all, he will eliminate the frost. He will also eliminate a lot of other problems INSIDE the building that he doesn't even realize are problems...yet! The shingles will last longer, and the AC costs will go down. Talk about being "fast and cheap" It is also efficient and better for the whole building.

It is short circuiting! Proper-Vent the rest of the soffit openings. Make sure that the soffit is completely vented; take out the aluminum solid soffit panels and install ALL vented panels, ALL of them! Get inside the attic and close off the gable end vents; both of them. Install an AirVent II ridge vent on the peak, and make sure that the opening on the peak is at least 1 1/2 inches wide, the whole length. When you are done, you should be able to stand in the attic at the peak and see light coming from the soffits all the way along, and the vent should be drawing air out the ridge. When the wind blows, it will draw even more. Your frost problems will go away! Oh, cut out and install the bathroom vents to attach the bathroom vent hoses to and vent them outside, not "against the gable vents" DON'T try and gang them together. Three bathrooms, three vents and separate hoses.

Wash, rise, repeat if you have other similar problems.