A big restoration job we just finished.

I have to take some finished pictures of the back side of the roof yet, but we just got snow and it is covered now. About 4 weeks of work here, including the wood repairs, insulation, siding and gutters. In a historical area too, so we had to deal with the historical commission and OSHA who paid us a visit. What fun. https://picasaweb.google.com/crookston.john4/WilsonS?authkey=Gv1sRgCJrQj82fnpL0Iw#6219611884767077922

Really nice work! :)

Nice work

This is a great looking project OS. That's alot of time to be on one job!! I'm used to moving around quite a bit, so I always get antzy on these slow ones unless the dollars are for sure in there.

I just got a call yesterday about a 65sq Metro Shake job I bid last year on a suhweet house. He's going for the upcharge and getting the Charcoal color. I'll post pics when done in a few months.

Woody, we do peel off the membrane, but we left it on the bottom part of the valley sheet so we could install the membrane beneath it and then let it adhere to that. We also tore off the old wood shingle siding to let us get behind them. We carried the peel and stick u the wall and the flashing is a one piece channel that carries the water down to the bottom and out. It is bent to work like that. Good eye though! Thanks!

Impressive job. You are capable of doing quite a variety of trades while you've got things setup.

A couple of questions, though. I have always been of the impression that for a peel-and-stick to be effective sealing nail holes, it must be adhered to the sheathing. (Otherwise there is movement that enlarges the nail penetration.) It looks like you leave the release paper on.

There is a roof plane on the right of the front side that meets the wall at an angle. It becomes a detail that gravity tells me that the flashing should be over the roofing, but yours is under the roofing. How does that drain?

That was all done on a time and material basis. I gave him ball park numbers, but as you said, we had no idea what to expect and I was fixing problems as I found them. He is an old family friend and I knew him when he was young and knew his parents before that. We took care of about 40 years of deferred maintenance!

Clover, The cutter shear works, but not for everything. For the exact cuts on the hips and the valleys, nothing like a saw table as long as you use the right blades and have a face shield. It is much faster, more accurate and easier. Maybe next spring you can come up when we are doing one and spend a day with us comparing notes and techniques.

Turns into a pretty complex project having to deal with the shingle side walls. Are those billed as an extra or priced into the project? Would be hard to quote on something where you don't really know the extent of the damage.

2nd link works.

I completely spaced out this morning and didn't tell you that there was a problem. I had to modify the link and forgot by the time I was done browsing.

https://picasaweb.google.com/crookston.john4/WilsonS?authkey=Gv1sRgCJrQj82fnpL0Iw#6219611884767077922

I do have the benders and shear. I guess I need a new blade on the sheer or to sharpen it. I've tightened and it's still not as good as when we first got it. Now we mostly cut them with a skilsaw and bend them up the hips.

Clover, No, we fold them up and install a wood nailer on both sides and then install the ridges over them. It is much faster and better I think. Do you have all of the benders and the shear to cut them? We use the shear and also a cutting table. It is a good system, but kind of expensive to get started.

Hey, I tried to look at the pictures from the link and it didn't work for me. Are the pictures showing up for everyone else?

That's a great project. A little bit of everything up there. Those Metro's sure look nice!

Do you guys use those factory tin nailers on hips and ridges?